Our complete in-house hemming service
Choose from our range of hemming services for a complete print-to-product service.
You may be interested in having your scarves hemmed and finished so that they are ready to wear. With a choice of finishes we can offer a neat and elegant edge, allowing the wearer to tie and wrap the scarf in a variety of styles.
If you would like to use our hemming service please contact us for our current turnaround times as these do vary throughout the year.
The scarves will be returned to you with finished edges, including your label and a fabric care label sewn in, where available and if requested.
The care label will say ‘Dry Clean Only – Made in the UK’ and include the composition of the fabric type.
Each scarf will have been individually pressed and packed in a clear cellophane bag.
Remember to send your labels with the order and a drawing if you would like the labels sewn in a particular position on the scarves. Unless otherwise instructed we will place labels 3–7cm away from a corner, as is usual on most scarves.
A minimum of 1cm is needed within the design size as your hemming allowance on all four sides of the scarf to achieve a standard machine finish. That is 1cm at the top, 1cm at the bottom, 1cm on the left side and 1cm on the right side.
Please note that on all Pin Hemmed scarves the machine stitch runs over all four corners and is therefore a faster service.
This style of hemming provides a consistent, flat edge. Hemming is always carried out using a matching thread as close to the design colours within the scarf as possible, unless otherwise requested.
A minimum of 1.5cm is needed within the design size as your hemming allowance on all four sides of the scarf to achieve a standard machine roll finish. That is 1.5cm at the top, 1.5cm at the bottom, 1.5cm on the left side and 1.5cm on the right side.
You do not need to add a border to your scarf unless you want to. It is not a Silk Bureau requirement.
Please note that on all Machine Roll scarves there are elements of hand finishing involved. We always hand roll the corners, fix any slipped stitches and sew in labels by hand. These personal touches do create longer lead times for all orders, particularly for orders of over 50 units.
Hemming is always carried out using a matching thread as close to the design colours within the scarf as possible, unless otherwise requested.
We strongly advise against rolled coloured edge hemming on the Machine Roll option. Due to the nature of the fabric and how it moves whilst printing and processing, there may be an irregular line and visible hem stitching from the front side. If there hasn’t been enough allowance left, we cannot be held responsible for the lack of consistency of the line. We do recommend that you source independent hand rolled hemming for this type of finish.
NOTE: Hand Finished Machine Roll hemming is not suitable on a scarf that has an angled hem.
Not all fabrics are suitable for Eyelash Fringing. Please check before ordering.
We recommend that you do not include a narrow border in your design when selecting this method of finish. Eyelash Fringing is a very delicate technique which requires the design to be aligned to the weft and warp of the fabric. This is an extremely difficult and precise position at the printing stage and is virtually impossible to achieve.
We recommend that this method of finish is best suited to an overall design that runs from edge to edge. However, if you would like a border it should be 4-5cm deep. By incorporating a deeper area of colour at the edges you can still create an effective border that will give more tolerance for cutting and hemming.
In order to fringe a scarf, a single thread is pulled through the weave to give a straight guide to follow. The remaining threads are then removed to leave a neat fringe.
If the fabric is just slightly off the grain it will be evident against a solid border. Only by cutting several times into the thread along its length can a constant depth of fringe be achieved. This staggered line can look unappealing.
Pin Hem and Fringe options can be combined on a scarf. This is particularly effective on a long scarf. Fringing is created on the opposite short ends and pin hemming on the opposite long sides.
If you would like a deeper fringe please tell us at the time of ordering. Unless otherwise requested we will fringe to 1cm in depth.
BORDERS ON FRINGED HEM FINISHES
If you select Fringe hemming you may need to adjust your artwork to suit this particular finish.
Getting the weave of the fabric exactly square is practically impossible. Having a border around the edge of the scarf will emphasize the skew of the fabric. Borders look great on machine hem finishes, but not fringed ones. Our video for best practice highlights the issues. See Common Faults on our FAQ’s page.
Whether you choose a single-bagged or double-bagged option, these double-sided scarves are a substantial alternative to the traditional scarf.
We recommend an allowance of 1cm on four sides of a design. The design is folded in half with the patterned side together. The three open sides are sewn, leaving a small gap at one end, creating a bag! This is then turned through the opening and either hand finished or machine straight stitched to close.
The scarf is then pressed to provide a knife edge finish.
We recommend an allowance of 1cm on all four sides of both front and back designs for this type of finished scarf.
With the design sides facing each other, all four sides are sewn together with a straight stitch leaving a small gap at one end, creating a bag! This is then turned through the opening and either hand finished or machine straight stitched to close.
The scarf is then pressed on both sides to provide a knife edge finish.
Not all fabrics are suitable for all of our hemming options. Please check to see which fabric best suits which finish.
|Fabric||Weight||Machine Pin Hem||HF Machine Roll||Eyelash fringe|
|Silk Satin 10||43||✓||✓||X|
|Silk Chiffon 10||43||✓||✓||X|
|Silk Light Satin||54||✓||✓||X|
|Silk Triple Georgette||82||✓||✓||X|
|Silk Chiffon 6||26||✓||✓||X|
|Silk Double Georgette||70||✓||✓||X|
|Silk Single Georgette||43||✓||✓||✓|
|Silk Twill 18||80||✓||✓||✓|
|Silk Satin Chiffon||39||✓||✓||X|
|Silk Heavy Habotai||82||✓||✓||X|
|Silk Light Crepe de Chine||43||✓||✓||X|
|Silk Sandwashed Habotai||70||✓||✓||X|
|Silk Light Twill||43||✓||✓||✓|
|Silk Crepe De Chine||61||✓||✓||✓|
|Silk Peachskin Crepe De Chine||61||✓||✓||✓|
|Silcott Light Satin||54||✓||✓||✓|
|Silcott Heavy Satin||122||✓||X||X|
|Silk Modal YZ004||57||✓||✓||✓|
|Silk Wool Fine Rib||57||✓||✓||✓|
|Cotton Fine Twill||165||✓||X||X|
|GOTS ECO Cotton Voile||85||✓||X||✓|
|GOTS ECO Non Optic Cotton Poplin||136||✓||X||X|
|GOTS ECO Cotton Twill||155||✓||X||X|
|GOTS ECO Cotton Light Sateen||120||✓||X||X|
|GOTS ECO Cotton Light Twill||120||✓||X||X|
|ECO Cotton Hem Fine Slub||152||✓||X||X|
|Poly Spandex Crepe||153||✓||X||X|
|Poly Crepe De Chine||85||✓||✓||X|
|Poly Chiff Sat||90||✓||✓||X|
|Poly Jacquard Spot||78||✓||X||X|
|Poly Volume Texture Satin||105||✓||✓||X|
|Poly Volume Charmeuse||85||✓||✓||X|
|Poly Volume Flat||156||✓||X||X|
|Poly Volume Dobby||120||✓||X||X|
|Poly Volume Mouseline||70||✓||✓||X|
|Poly Volume Soft Sateen||80||✓||✓||X|
|Poly Volume Cavalry Twill||86||✓||✓||X|
|Poly Volume Habotai||80||✓||X||X|
|FR Contract Organza||50||✓||X||X|
|FR Contract Voile||70||✓||X||X|
|Regenesis Crepe De Chine||100||✓||✓||X|
|Regenesis Light Satin||90||✓||✓||X|
|Cashmere Modal Twill||64||✓||✓||✓|
Here is a guide to some of the most popular hemming sizes requested by our customers and the cost of each hemming type. If you would like a quote on a scarf size not listed below, please get in touch.
The cost of the fabric and printing is in addition to these prices. Our current price list is available by contacting firstname.lastname@example.org
|Artwork Size||Pin Hem & Eyelash Fringe||Hand Finished Machine Roll Hem|
|33 x 33 cms||£3.49||£4.36|
|45 x 45 cms||£3.90||£4.88|
|60 x 60 cms||£4.20||£5.25|
|90 x 90 cms||£5.10||£6.38|
|120 x 120 cms||£5.83||£7.29|
|134 x 134 cms||£6.46||£8.08|
|45 x 180 cms||£5.61||£7.01|
|68 x 220 cms||£6.91||£8.64|
|134 x 180 cms||£7.51||£9.39|
If an even reverse colour is important on your scarves, it is best to select a lighter weight fabric from our range. If the fabric has a loose weave and is thinner, it enables more colour to penetrate through the fibres onto the reverse of the scarf.
Hint: Popular fabric choices are Light Satin, Single Georgette, Habotai and Light Crepe de Chine, Poly Chiffon and Twill. Our suggested fabrics have been chosen for their good colour penetration and drape when worn.
Our experienced print operators are practised in getting some pretty tricky fabric weaves to print very straight, however, silk is a natural fabric and the weave is sometimes irregular, especially on finer fabrics. This can occasionally be further distorted during the coating of the fabric. As the fabric comes directly off a roll, it is fed onto the printer and adheres to a permanent adhesive belt, at this stage the fabric cannot be manipulated or adjusted.
Prints, which have borders and straight lines are more at risk of distortion through weave movement than ones with all over patterns. Think about how you use borders and geometric designs within your artwork.
There is a higher risk of this in lighter weight fabrics, such as Chiffon, where the straightness of the weft can vary dramatically through a roll.
During the digital textile printing process shrinkage occurs. This can vary according to fabric type and the processes involved in production.
When we know that your fabric order is intended for make scarves, we will pass it through our Stenter to bring it as close as possible to the original size of the artwork. Please allow additional lead times to include this additional step.
Here are some best practices to consider when designing for a scarf.
Of course the size and dimension will dictate much of your design but also think about the finished article.
Clear answers to all these questions will help you and us achieve the best results.
BLOCK COLOUR IN YOUR DESIGN?
Not a good idea. Digital printing does not suit a block colour design, but it does suit multi-patterned, multi-coloured design. The slightest ink spot on a plain background (coloured or white) will be clearly visible and spoil the whole scarf. If your design contains block colour you will be asked to accept the risks involved. Obviously we do our best to avoid this happening but we cannot guarantee that one of the printing nozzles won’t release a micro drop of ink which, on a block colour, would be very obvious.
It’s a good idea to place your signature within the design of your scarf in case the label is cut out. After all, you want to receive the credit just like any artist does!
Its placement is important – don’t put it so close to the edge of your artwork that it gets caught up in the hemming. We recommend a minimum of 2.5cm from the edge of your design and 5cm if you’re having fringe hemming.
The majority of our fabrics have a printable width of 136cm for scarves. If you choose to include a border this must also be within the 136cm width. Consider this when you are designing your artwork for print so that you can utilise as much of the fabric as possible and avoid unnecessary waste.
See diagram below. If you are combining several scarves into one canvas only leave a 1mm cutting gap between the scarves as we use a ‘hot wire’ cutting machine to separate the scarves. See: Cutting Line Tip
By incorporating a larger area of colour at the edges of your scarves you can still create an effective border that will give more tolerance for cutting and hemming.
Please remember to include a 1mm space between your scarf files to show a clear cutting line, as we use a hot wire cutter to separate your scarves. This is particularly important if you have included white borders. Please use a pale grey or cream cut line so that it does not show within the hem roll on your scarves.
We recommend that you do not use white borders on scarves that require Machine Pin Hem finishing, as the hot wire cutter may leave a visible burn line within the hem.
We include free care labels with our scarf hemming service. These fabric care labels are hand sewn into the hem of your finished scarf. The label will say ‘Dry Clean Only – Made in the UK’.
If you would like to send us your own name or care label then please do so at the time of ordering. We will hand sew these into the hem of your scarves as part of the hemming service.
If you would like to have your labels sewn in a particular position on your scarf, please include a drawn diagram with approximate measurements. Unless otherwise instructed we will hand sew labels 3-7cm away from a corner.
Borders can look great on a scarf. They act like a frame on a piece of artwork.
As straight lines and geometric shapes can be an issue in digital textile printing, so too can borders. Why not try a patterned border instead of a plain one?
If you would like to include a border on your scarves, please allow for the hemming. Remember we will need at least 1cm for the hem and so your border should never be less than 2cm. For a more dramatic border, make it even deeper.
The total surface area of your scarf may include slight anomalies associated with the process of digital textile printing.
Minor inclusions such as ink spots, water marks, loose threads, slubs, wavy lines, thread rotation and surface lint within the printed area will be considered as acceptable by Quality Control. We will not approve any print that we consider contains large inclusions. These will have been rejected and reprinted prior to dispatch.
The Silk Bureau Ltd will always endeavour to produce printed fabrics of the highest quality but cannot be held responsible for any weave quality issues that originate with our suppliers. Any irregularities and variations in the weave of our fabrics are not to be considered as defects. They are characteristics of a natural fibre.
Please examine the fabrics carefully before processing your scarves. Direct or indirect claims for any reason whatsoever will not be accepted once the customer, or any party acting upon their instructions, has cut, or processed the fabric in any way. Claims for any defects, or shortages, must be made in writing within seven days of delivery of the fabric.